Where Magic Lives

On the way to Trigrad, my friends kept telling me what a magical place it is. Apart from its beauty, whispers of ages past echo in the Rhodope Mountains, they claimed. Several times we stopped in order to show me the sights. In their enthusiasm they may not have realised that it was pitch dark, except for some lunar light. It smelled fresh and moist, but this is the only statement I can make in all honesty. But in order not to step on some thirty happy toes, I kept my mouth shut. After a five-hour trip (we made loads of stops for coffee though) we finally arrived in Trigrad. Wet dog noses and a sizzling fire greeted us. Chacho and Maria, who owned the dogs and the fireplace, placed us at their table. There, seated, drinking home made rakia and talking, was the rest of our 'excursion' group, all friends, most of them photographers and one, a chef. Although I had never met our hosts, they treated me as if I was a long lost friend. I immediately felt at home. After a night of philosophy, drinks and a great chocolate cake, it was time to go to bed. Our hosts arranged for accommodation, since their house is not used for lodging. They offered their two spare rooms to two of our party. A friend and me were staying at the Fishing House. And the last twosome had again a different place to stay. It was cold (take woollen clothes into the mountains, no matter whether it's summer), about five degrees. I, as the typical city girl, hadn't anticipated this. It took three enormous blankets and a heater on full blast to keep me warm. But the next morning I woke up in euphoria, sounds of nature were beckoning and the fresh air made me hungry. A rumbling stomach made me shower in double speed. The 'hotel' we were staying, was ok, if a cleaning lady could have done her round before our arrival it would be perfect (for a simple kind of place). This said, most friends are calling me a hygiene freak. In any case I was armed with bath slippers, my toilet set and an extra towel, so I was fine. It's great to have a chef as a friend. Especially when he really loves his profession. He had BAKED bread that morning, and went to the local Mandra, to get fresh cheese. It was so pure, it was exquisite. Over a cup of coffee we made a plan to go to the Devil's Throat. This cave is supposed to be a magical place. The legend goes this is the place where Orpheus went down into the kingdom of spectres, in search of his love, Euridica. This cave holds the biggest cascade of waterfalls on the Balkan Peninsula, with a total height of 60 metres. The saying goes that whatever goes into the actual throat of the cave, where water runs, never comes out. There have been scientific tests with all kinds of objects. The Devil's Throat even took the lives of two young lovers from Varna. In memory of them their pictures are engraved into the rocks. Of course I was very excited to go in myself. After a speech of the history of the cave, the guide led a group of us in. I was following a grandmother and her husband. Strangely enough the woman was wearing slippers and an apron. She looked like her husband pulled her away from the stove while she was preparing lunch. Anyway, we made our way deeper and deeper into the cave; we went down stairs that never seemed to end. And then we found ourselves in this big rock chamber. The sound of the water hissing in the Devil's Throat was overwhelming. Next to it was a religious shrine, thousands of coins lay there, shimmering in the dimly lit cave. After a heavy climb up, we found ourselves in the open air again, speechless from the experience. Another cave worth visiting is the Eneolithic dwelling, Haramiiska. Unfortunately I have a knee problem, which made me unable to visit this cave. It involves some serious rock climbing for about 20 metres. And with serious I mean, ropes, gloves helmets, hammers and other mountaineering equipment. So, no way. The descent is about 43 metres. All in all it takes five hours to do the tour. My friends came back gasping, from exhaustion and enthusiasm. After another cosy night with great food and the warmth of the people and the fireplace, I woke up with anticipation. Again. Today we were going to go horse riding. This was my type of activity (the horse does the walking). Maria and Chacho own stables and offer (day) trips through the mountains on horseback. We were going for a lunch picnic on the green field surrounded by the monstrous mountains. I hadn't ridden in years. But Maria guided the horse calmly through rocks and streams. The animal however had another idea about spending his Sunday and any chance he got, he tried to turn around and head home. Maria explained to me that mainly she and her husband rode the horse - it was still very young and yet had to learn how to deal with the less experienced riders. In any case, Maria didn't give him the opportunity to hit and run, so I was seated high, feeling great! I decided to come back another time and really make a ride from different mountain villages on horseback. Apparently there are still many interesting archaeological, historical and ethnographic places and untouched nature. And here I leave you with the words; must see and experience! And dress warm!