Sofia Is My Kind Of Place

Sofia is big, enough and not too. Depending on whom you ask, it’s either a charming, if somewhat decrepit, Southeast European former communist capital, or a somewhat large city that is trying to find its place, or, it's just perfect. Most foreigners like it here, otherwise they would not stay. Large and exciting if you come from suburbia or a small town somewhere, or even if you are accustomed to megalopolises like New York or Tokyo, Sofia has a surprising amount of accessible culture and entertainment, not to mention business potential and constant development. Unlike in smaller towns in the country, Sofia lacks united expatriate community, though once you start to meet people, you'll find that Sofia is a small world. Maybe other places are similar, but here, it seems that nationalities hang out with their own type. Depending on why and how you're here, it might or might not be the most comfortable of lives, but it's ever-rewarding for its slower pace, easy-going attitude and mixture of big-city Balkan quirkiness with village imports. In many ways, Sofia is very much just a large small town. It's not uncommon to see horses hitched to wagons, or pensioners trying to supplement their meagre pensions by digging through rubbish bins. On the other hand, top-model luxury SUVs and sport cars speed along the oft-cobbled streets, flaunting a belligerent new-money and who-cares attitude. Some cultural notes Family still plays a very important role in society, with grandma and/or grandpa acting as main caregivers to their child(ren)'s offspring. Holidays are spent with loved ones, family or friends, and it is not uncommon to see families strolling through the city's many parks and gardens. Be aware of some traditions: women should never set their handbags on the ground (bad luck); when saying cheers (наздраве!/nazdrave), you must look the person you're toasting in the eye (or you'll just be considered very rude). Note that toasts happen often throughout the time you're drinking together. Also, it's considered bad luck to toast someone who is drinking a non-alcoholic beverage. If you clink your glass with one person, you must clink your glass with everyone. Society tends to be not superstitious, but rather, well, yes, superstitious. Be prepared for regular questions about your star/astrological sign, and looks of understanding when you tell it. You might see people making a spitting noise down their shirt three times if frightened, and the knocking on wood tradition also exists here. Other things: women need not fear looking a man in the eye when walking down the street; eye contact will not be taken as an invitation for a sexual advance. There is no distinction to age or sex when it comes to shaking hands – meaning, it's ok to shake hands with a woman, or a child, or a man. At a meal, it's not uncommon for all to share dishes from the centre of the table, or to take a taste of another's meal. As orders tend to arrive when they're ready, and not all at once or necessarily in any particular “proper” order, if you're with friends, it's not required to wait till everyone has his/her food. People tend to work long hours, interspersed by numerous coffee and cigarette breaks… Or lunch or time at a café with colleagues, friends or work-related acquaintances. There is often an overlap between work and play, friends from the office are also friends for outside the office. That youthful silhouette A great thing about Sofia is that most places of interest are walkable from the centre. But, if you need more than your feet on the pavement to keep fit and trim, check out some of the numerous sport clubs scattered around the city. Maleevi Tennis Club, a product of the famed tennis family Maleevi, offers tennis, squash, a fitness centre, a solarium and spa, yoga, belly dancing, tae bo, aerobics and kickboxing lessons, a full-service salon and a children’s room (tel: 962 22 88, www.maleevaclub.com). Athletic Fitness, locations around Sofia, finds preference for the extended hours (6 Atanas Delchev Str, tel: 970 01 31 and 22 Oborishte Str, tel: 943 44 19, both open Mon-Fri 8am-10pm, Sat-Sun 10am-10pm; 78 Yanko Sakuzov Str, tel: 944 51 25, open Mon-Fri 7.30am-10pm, Sat-Sun 9am-10pm, www.athletic-bg.com). Then there is Sport Palace at 75 Vassil Levski Bul, which offers a range of fitness options and really long hours (tel: 930 05 02, open Mon-Sun 7.15am-11.45pm; it might help to take a Bulgarian-speaker the first time around). Finally, but not at all conclusive, there is Sport Depot Gym in Business Park Sofia (Mladost 4, tel: 976 45 92). For fun with the kids, there is a large play area that has recently opened in Borissova Gradina (entrance from Evlogi Georgiev Bul and Tsarigradsko Chausse Bul). Also in this park, though further in, is Kokolandia, a sort of supervised and harness-in ropes course, for both children and adults (Nezabravka Str, behind Park-Hotel Moskva, tel: 831 30 95, open 9am-9pm). The numerous other parks in the various boroughs of Sofia (Yuzhen Park, Oborishte Park, Zapaden Park, Severen Park, Doctor's Garden, etc) also have playgrounds and nice grassy areas. Guaranteed social interaction is found with the Hash House Harriers, who meet for a cat-and-mouse run every second and fourth Sunday at 3pm (winter) or 4pm (summer). Go to www.sofiahash.org for current information and contacts. And then there is Murphy’s Misfits, the expatriate rugby team with a Bulgarian contingent. Touch practice happens most every Thursday at the National Sports Academy in Studentski Grad, with games on Saturdays. You do not have to be experienced to play! [www.murphysmisfits.org] Play that funky music So where do people get their music fix in Sofia? The National Opera and Ballet is always an option, with reasonable prices and a range of productions (1 Vrabcha Str, on the corner of Rakovski Str and Dondoukov Bul; tel: 987 13 66). The National Palace of Culture, more commonly known by its Bulgarian acronym of НДК/NDK, hosts numerous shows, performances and trade fairs in its maze of halls (1 Bulgaria Sq, ticket centre tel: 916 63 69, or 916 68 96; 952 64 77 for English, www.ndk.bg). For classical music, both by domestic and visiting orchestras and choruses, Bulgaria Hall is the place to go (1 Aksakov Str, tel: 987 76 56). Most concerts, dance performances, singers and so on are advertised around the city with posters glued on any wall or space. If you can sound out the Cyrillic alphabet and understand the date, it’s pretty easy to inform yourself about upcoming events. Buying tickets ahead of time could be a good idea, but in Bulgaria, it’s not requisite; many people buy at the door – the culture only plans ahead when making dinner reservations (a must in most places on the weekend!). More popular music (think club, jazz) is another story. Discos abound, offering a range of music. Remixed retro (think 1970s to 1990s) is most common, though there are a few good house clubs (Yalta, Chervilo). Fans (114 Vassil Levski Bul, tel: 089/ 606 13 15) is where to go for underground metal, alternative, and randomness, including regular performances by Vasko “Кръпката/Krupkata” (“the Patch”), a folk-blues-rocker dude. Cielo (44 Alexander Stamboliiski Bul, open from 9pm), Black Box (5 Pirotska Str) and 4km Party Center (111 Tsarigradsko Chausse Bul, tel: 870 07 75) are also very happening. Unfortunately, good jazz clubs are lacking in Sofia. Swingin’ Hall (8 Dragan Tsankov Bul, open Sun-Mon 9pm-4am) might come close, with its variety of live bands, sometimes including Western folk, jazz, gypsy and more. Live Greek music can be heard at Morfes (70 Neofit Rilski Str, tel: 988 00 08, open from 10pm), while for Bulgarian pop-folk (aka, chalga), you have a choice of Най-Клуб/Nai-Klub (22 Narodno Subranie Sq, tel: 981 27 47, open from 8pm; also in Mladost 3, in the Nova Denitsa complex, tel: 975 33 63, open 10pm-4am) and others, including the over-the-top Sin City Folk Help Club, with its themed halls and luxurious décor (Vusrazhdane Sq, 61 Hristo Botev Bul, tel: 810 88 88, open 24 hours). Do you know any movie stars? (No) Besides the newer, large multiplex cinemas showing mass-production current releases (Arena Zapad, Arena, Multiplex in the underpass in front of NDK, City Center Sofia, Mall of Sofia), five more small-scale, independent theatres still exist: Дом РЅР° киното/Dom na Kinoto (37 Ekzarh Yosif Str, tel: 980 39 11), РљРёРЅРѕ Ларго/Kino Largo (108 Rakovska Str, tel: 980 70 77), Euro Cinema (17 Alexander Stamboliiski Bul, in the Euro-Bulgarian Cultural Centre, tel: 980 41 61), 087 Ялта/Yalta (20 Tsar Osvoboditel Bul, in the underpass at Sofia University, tel: 981 65 30) and Одеон/Odeon (1 Patriarh Evtemii Bul, tel: 989 24 69). These show foreign and more art-type films. Odeon, in particular, has regular screenings of film classics since the beginning of cinema. Note that most children's films (both animation and not) are dubbed, as are all the IMAX films (Mall of Sofia). Check out The Sofia Echo or www.sofiaecho.com for current listings of cinema, theatre and concerts in English. Listen, I'm hungry / Thirsty for surprises Restaurants, cafés, lunch counters and bars abound. If you're unsure if it's such a location, look for a sign announcing Zagorka/Kamenitza/Tuborg/some coffee brand on the side of a building – it usually is. These words might also help: Р±СЉСЂР·Рѕ хране/burzo hrane (fast food), бистро/bistro, закуска/zakouska (snacks), снек бар/snek bar (snack bar). For traditional Bulgarian, apart from the ever-affordable and delicious neighbourhood joints, Манастирска магерница/Manastirska Magernitsa (Monastery Cookhouse, 67 Han Asparouh Str, tel: 980 38 83 ) and РџРѕРґ липите/Pod Lipite (Under the Lindens, 1 Elin Pelin Str, Lozenets borough, tel: 866 50 53) require a visit. Both are top quality, with gracious but not pretentious traditional atmospheres and cooking, and live folk music nightly. Manastirska Magernitsa stands out for its fairytale-like menu, each item explained with a humorous history and definition. At Pod Lipite, you can be sure of a dish's authenticity, as everything is made on the premises. (It is also the oldest restaurant in Sofia, existing as an artists’ hangout since the 1920s.) Pizza as a street food is more than present, and most of it is rather good. Don't be put off by the typical Bulgarian toppings (at your disposal) of ketchup, mustard, mayonnaise and/or sharena sol (a traditional mixed powder of salt, savoury, black and red peppers, cornmeal and ground pumpkin seeds). If you're looking to sit down with your pie, try Джепето/Geppetto (19 Gurko Str, tel: 981 27 07) for a relaxed atmosphere and inexpensive prices; Victoria (numerous locations across the city, www.pizza-victoria.com), where the pizzas are baked in maybe the only wood-fire pizza ovens in the capital and prices are a bit higher; or Червената къща/Chervenata Kushta (6 Boris Hristov Str, Geo Milev district) for all-around good food, beer and atmosphere. Sushi restaurants are starting to appear; The Sushi Bar is nice and safe (18 Denkoglu Str, tel: 981 84 42). Much more recently opened are Wasabi (35a Alexander von Humboldt Str, Geo Milev district, tel: 973 34 34) and Kabuki (Akademik Metodi Popov Str, block 71 /on the corner with Chekhov Street/, Iztok district, tel: 971 70 60), but we haven't tried either. Vegetarians and non will like Dream House (50a Alabin Str, upstairs, tel: 980 81 63, www.dreamhouse-bg.com), where vegetables abound in all forms. The chill/posh/player scene does exist as well. To see and be seen, try Motto (18 Aksakov Str, tel: 987 27 23, www.motto-bg.com), Brasserie (behind the little park at Solounska and Angel Kunchev streets, tel: 980 03 98), Olive's (12 Graf Ignatiev Str, tel: 986 09 02) or Before & After (12 Hristo Belchev Str, tel: 981 60 88). And just because it's fantastic, in both décor (like being in an old-fashioned train) and food (Russian), try Гара Р·Р° двама/Gara za Dvama (Station for Two, 18 Benkovski Str, tel: 989 76 75). The traditional food called баница/banitsa (a filo-type dough layered with sirene, a brined white cheese, and baked) is best found at the banicharnitsa (banitsa and bread shop) at the corner of Rakovski and Pop Bogomil streets, near Slivnitsa Bul (open Mon-Fri 8am-7.30pm, Sat 8am-4pm). Trust me on this one. Now I lay me If you're visiting, or have visitors, I will recommend the Sheraton Sofia Hotel Balkan for top-of-top in everything, including prices (tel: 981 65 41). Otherwise, try some of the classy boutique hotels strewn around the city: Diter (65 Han Asparouh Str, tel: 989 89 98, www.diterhotel.com), Scotty's Boutique Hotel (11 Ekzarh Yosif Str, tel: 983 67 77), Vega (75 GM Dimitrov Str, tel: 806 60 00, www.hotelvegasofia.com); Lyulin (6 Serdika Str, tel: 980 01 20), Pop Bogomil (5 Pop Bogomil Str, tel: 983 70 65), or California (30 Bigla Str, tel: 962 93 00). Most of these, save Pop Bogomil, are more pricey. Good hostels include the artsy, small The Rooms Guesthouse (10 Pop Bogomil Str, tel: 983 35 08, theroomshostel@yahoo.com); Hostel Mostel (2a Ploshtad Makedonia, 088/ 922 32 96, www.hostelmostel.com); and Be My Guest Hostel (13 Ivan Vazov Str, tel: 989 50 92, www.bemyguest-hostel.com). No dull Jacks While Sofia has much to offer in its city limits, there is also a wealth of adventure directly outside. The natural wonder on Vitosha Mountain called Златните мостове/Zlatnite Mostove (The Golden Bridges) is easily accessible from Rousski Pametnik using marshroutka (a form of public transport in a minivan) number 10. It takes you directly up to the nature reserve, where you can hike around or just picnic. Treks to other areas of Vitosha are also pretty easy, using bus number 66 from Hladilnika (where tramline number 9 ends). The Red House Centre for Culture and Debate presents a range of cultural gatherings, meetings, film showings, concerts and debates, many of which are in English, French or German, as well as the obvious Bulgarian. The house, the former residence of artist Andrei Nikolov, also acts as a bed-and-breakfast (15 Lyuben Karavelov Str, tel: 988 81 88, www.redhouse-sofia.org). Non-native Bulgarians tend to hang out at JJ Murphy’s pub (6 Kurnigradska Str, tel: 980 28 70, www.jjmurphys-sofia.com), particularly those in love with football (both American and British), rugby and other such sports. In addition, Fridays are designated as Expats Night. Every Thursday from 8pm, the Sofia Hashers meet at The Irish Harp (7 Sveta Sofia Str, tel: 989 87 37, www.irish-harp.biz), and on Mondays, they show American football. Flannagans at the Radisson Hotel also tends to be a popular hangout, particularly for its weekday happy hour. Note: To call any of the phone numbers from outside the Sofia area, dial 02 before the seven-digit number. Phone numbers starting in 08 are cell phones (called GSMs in Bulgaria); they do not require a city code. To call from outside Bulgaria, dial 00359 and drop the zero from the city code or GSM number, ie, 943 11 15 becomes 00359 2 943 11 15 when dialled from abroad. By Magdalena Rahn